HVAC Calculators
Load and airflow calculations for heating and cooling, with every assumption exposed as an editable field. These are square-footage estimates rather than a full Manual J, and each page says exactly where that distinction starts to matter.
11 tools in this category
BTU Calculator
Cooling BTU for a room, adjusted for height, sun and occupancy.
OpenAC Size Calculator
Whole-house air conditioner tonnage from area, climate and insulation.
OpenFurnace Size Calculator
Furnace BTU from heated area, climate and efficiency rating.
OpenMini Split Sizing Calculator
Mini split head size for a room, matched to real unit sizes.
OpenDuct Size Calculator
Round and rectangular duct size from CFM and target velocity.
OpenCFM Calculator
Airflow in CFM from room volume and target air changes.
OpenStatic Pressure Calculator
Total external static pressure against the air handler's rating.
OpenSEER Savings Calculator
Annual running cost difference between two SEER ratings.
OpenDelta T Calculator
Temperature split between return and supply air, assessed.
OpenBathroom Fan CFM Calculator
Extractor fan size for a bathroom, by both common rules.
OpenTons to BTU Calculator
Convert cooling tons to BTU per hour and kilowatts.
Open
Why bigger is worse, not safer
Every other material on this site rewards rounding up. Air conditioning punishes it. An oversized system satisfies the thermostat before it has run long enough to pull moisture out of the air, so it short-cycles — leaving a house that is cold and clammy while the compressor wears out faster than it should.
That is the opposite of the intuition most people bring to sizing, and it is why the tonnage calculator here rounds to the nearest half ton rather than up. A system that runs almost continuously on the hottest day of the year is not struggling; that is what correct sizing looks like.
What these calculators are, and are not
A proper residential load calculation is ACCA Manual J. It accounts for orientation, window area and glazing type, insulation values, air-tightness, duct losses, internal gains and your local design temperature — and it produces a room-by-room result that a square-footage estimate cannot.
These tools take floor area and apply the adjustments that move the answer most: climate, ceiling height, sun exposure, occupancy and insulation quality. That is enough to sanity-check a contractor's proposal or scope a project. It is not enough to specify equipment for a whole-house replacement, and no page here pretends otherwise.
Room-by-room figures also do not simply add up to a whole-house size. Rooms peak at different times of day, so a house total is meaningfully less than the sum of its rooms.
Airflow is where systems actually fail
Correctly sized equipment connected to undersized ductwork performs like undersized equipment. Most residential air handlers are rated to deliver their nominal airflow at half an inch of external static pressure, and a high-MERV filter in a slot built for a cheap one can consume half that budget on its own.
The duct and static pressure calculators exist for that reason. Poor airflow shows up as weak cooling, frozen coils and high bills rather than as an obvious fault, so it goes undiagnosed for years.
Frequently asked questions
How many BTU do I need per square foot?
Roughly 20 to 25 BTU per square foot in a moderate climate, rising toward 30 to 35 in hot and humid regions. Ceiling height, sun exposure, occupancy and insulation all adjust it, which is why each is a separate field rather than baked into a constant.
Is bigger air conditioning better?
No — it is actively worse. Oversized equipment short-cycles, never running long enough to dehumidify, which leaves a house cold and damp and shortens compressor life. Slightly undersized runs longer and holds a steadier, drier temperature.
Do these replace a Manual J load calculation?
No. They are square-footage estimates with the adjustments that matter most, useful for scoping a project or checking a quote. Specifying equipment for a whole-house replacement warrants a real Manual J.
What is a normal temperature split?
Sixteen to twenty-two degrees Fahrenheit between return and supply air is typical for residential cooling. Lower usually means low charge or a dirty coil; higher usually means restricted airflow rather than an unusually good system.
Is anything I enter sent to a server?
No. Every calculation runs in your browser as you type. There is no back end, no analytics and no account.

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